ERP W10510667 Dishwasher Motor Pump

About this item

Peace of mind assured - comes with a one-year warranty
Compatible with all major brands
The W10510667 can replace the following part numbers: W10349483, W10440715

• B. Jones

  The replacement is not too hard if you are mechanically inclined. My washer is a Kenmore 665.1340, but it is quite similar inside to a number of models sold under different names, Whirlpool, for example.Here's the procedure. Turn off the power at the breaker box. Don't skip this step. Remove the two screws the hold the front of the dishwasher to the bottom of the countertop in front. Pull the dishwasher out a little ways, slowly, while making sure the two hoses and electrical wire underneath don't get hung up on something on the bottom of the dishwasher. There may be enough slack in the three connections to allow the washer to come all the way out. If not, disconnect the three before you slide it out too far. Disconnect the discharge hose (pressure fit), the inlet water connection (probably more than finger tight; use pliers), and the power (metal box with power wire going to it. (Did you turn the breaker off??) It makes the job a lot easier if you turn the dishwasher upside down. Really. It's not hard to do. Water will come out of the discharge hose and out of the motor when you remove it. Have a towel handy.The motor is held in by three connections: a single pinch-type hose clamp on the output hose, the friction of the input port that fits into a rubber port, and a plastic arm that inserts into a rubber grommet. No screws! The motor hangs in mid air, which is nice for making it quiet. Unplug the motor. The connector has a plastic tab that must be pressed outward to release the connector. The single hose clamp that you must deal with is a pinch type, so you will either need to work the hose off with the clamp still in place (it does come off that way), or you will need to release the clamp somehow. You can get the clamp to loosen up by twisting the crimp knob back and forth a bit with pliers--gently. I suppose you could cut it off, but I don't think that is necessary or wise. Remove the hose clamp, and work the motor assembly back and forth while pulling to get it free. Install the new pump using a little dishsoap on the inner surfaces of the rubber hoses to ease installation. It's nearly impossible to shove the pressure fit connection together if it's dry. Deal with the hose clamp somehow. It's a narrow clamp, not the usual width of clamp with the screw tightener. I couldn't find one locally. I elected to "fix" the pinch clamp by bending it back to its original shape and putting it back on. I was able to shove the hose on without too much trouble, helped by dish soap. I'm not recommending this strategy... well, maybe I am. I'm just saying that if you don't have a new 2" pinch clamp and a set of pinch clamp pliers, you're going to have to innovate. I suppose a 1/4" wide zip tie pulled nice and tight would work well, too.Hook 'er up and see what happens. Watch for leaks while running a cycle. Have some tea or another beverage, depending on the time of day. Good luck.Note well: This pump, the W10510667, can replace the W11032770 (formerly W10529163). Other reviewers have pointed this out, and I took a chance on the basis of their experience and the similarity in appearance of the *10667 and the *32770. The pump is electrically and mechanically the same. The *32770 is nearly three times the price as the *10667. The *10667 that I got looked slightly different from the *32770, a difference in manufacturer I suspect, but it was dimensionally and functionally identical.Another review noted that the original pump that failed did so because the sleeve bearings inside the pump went bad so that the spinning part of the motor wobbled. Mine failed in the same way. It sounded horrible when I ran it on the bench, and the impeller moved noticeably from side to side. The presenting symptom is that the dishwasher will fill but not wash--no spray action. Mine would spray a little and then quit, or only spray in the middle. The motor was able to start occasionally, but not always, due to the bad bearings.

• Kim

  The motor came on time and it was easy to install. It works wonderful ! It’s quiet and I love it. Saved me lots of money ! Thank you

• Gus C.

  I installed this about 2 months ago and everything is still working great. Seems as good as the original.

• Amazon Customer

  the PROBLEM:Let me start by saying that it appears that this pump is very common across the various whirlpool brands family of dishwashers. Dependent on usage frequency, the dishwasher will stop circulating water within a year to two years. The machine will fill, drain and dry, but it will not wash the dishes. At first sign of the symptom it may be an intermittent problem indicative of a controller failure. In our case this was not the source of the problem. The cause is the failure of the motor bearing sleeves (bushings). Two bushings holding the rotor (the part with the impeller attached circulates the water) centered in the housing assembly, however due to a design flaw, over time the bushing will fail to stay securely to in place and will cause the rotor to have excessive vibration as it spins in the bushings. The excessive vibration will lead to the rotor shaft elongating the bushing holes throwing the rotor off center. With the rotor no longer centered it will make contact with the housing wall and with continued use it will no longer spin.The SOLUTION:The obvious solution of warranty repair work aside, I suspect that this pump is common across various whirlpool owned brands and models of dishwasher. I have a Whirlpool WDT780SAEM1, this pump is not supposed to be compatible with my unit. This is most likely true because the pump top ( the black part with the inlet and outlet hose connection) may be different size and fit for various dishwasher models. However, turning the black top a quarter turn will separate the top from the pump body. I believe that the pump body is common to various models. This was the case with my unit. The replacement work is simple. With the unit removed from under the cabinet and turned on its side exposing the bottom ( elevate the bottom to cause the residual water to run down towards the top of the unit and not leak out onto your floor.) disconnect the motor electrical connector. Pull at a slight angle on the motor housing until it is freed from the sub assembly. Then turn the pump housing a quarter turn to free it from the black top with the inlet and outlet piping connection. Swap in the new pump housing and reverse the steps to re-assembly.CONCLUSION: Since the replacement pump has the same design as the OEM, I suspect that the bushings will fail within the same time frame and level of use as the original part. Buying this pump at around $60 sure bits paying around $160 for the entire assembly, not to mention the additional labor time it will take to replace. There is a guy on youtube who replaced the bushings with bearings, this may very well extend the life of the pump.

• jack

  I ran across this while looking at pumps costing $100 more. One of the reviews mentioned it fit more than the advertised machine, so I took a chance. Curiously, I didn't receive the one pictured, but the motor specs were the same. Since this isn't my first wrestling match with a dishwasher, when I installed it, I made sure it would be easier to service. Longer hoses, and wiring meant I didn't have to disconnect everything. The large grommet appeared to be glued to the sump, so contrary to the videos, I didn't pull it with the pump. I had to do a lot of wiggling to get it back on, but so far no leaks. I had a set of nippers from a small 6 piece set, I had to pull them apart to fit, but it snugged the clamp well. As I said so far no leaks, the new pump sounds more robust, I'm very pleased with myself for saving even more money than I had first thought.

• Craig G.

  Use this to fix my Whirlpool dishwasher. Barely easy to do the swap of the existing part and washer has been running fine for months now.

• Amazon Customer

  First, it did not function after installing the unit. It would groan like it was trying to do something, but would never pump water out of the sprayers. I checked my voltage into the unit and I had good voltage when the diagnostic mode got to the test for this unit. I then uninstalled the unit and then hooked the power cable back up to see what the groan was. This way I could look in to see if the impeller was turning. I went through the diagnostic mode on the washer again and when I got to the test for this pump, it would spin for a second, pause for a second, spin for a second then stop. Then after about 5 seconds it would do it again. So it was pulsing, not just spinning as it should have. By the way, the pump did the same thing when I had it installed and I ran a normal wash cycle; it did not just do this in diagnostic mode. No water is being sprayed with this new unit. Defective part.Second, this is NOT a replacement for P/Ns W10805386 or W10879262. Everyone in the Q/A section says it is good for that application except one commenter named "Natural Gas Appliance Company". They are correct. I thought it would be no big deal, but when I received it, I noticed something I did not pay attention to in the pictures. The Duty Cycle on both of these is VERY different. The original part my dishwasher wants is W10805386 or W10879262 which has a "30min ON / 10min OFF" Duty Cycle. The one being sold here is "20min ON / 10min OFF" Duty Cycle. This means that this part is rated to only run for 20 minutes before it needs to turn off and cool for 10 minutes. If your washer's controller is programmed to run the spray cycle for 21 to 30 minutes, you will burn up this unit prematurely.

• Darrel Morisse

  Installed the pump right away and works perfectly. Good fit and good quality for the price.Thanks

• Stephen R.

  Found this in the used section for $28.03 delivered to my door. You will need a pair of single ear clamp pliers, I work on cars so I had a pair for CV boots already. Dishwasher has been back up and running for 3 months or so. Pretty crazy considering the factory part was $200+. PN for my dishwasher was WDF510PAYS2.

• Sean and Lisa

  This is the 2nd time I've had to buy this pump. OEM lasted nearly 8 years. This replacement lasted 2.5 years the first time, and now we'll see how long this one lasts. Once you know what you're doing, installation is pretty simple, albeit a pain in the next to get to the pump...on the bottom of the dishwasher.For reference, the water going through this pump is filtered and softened. Dishes are scraped and rinsed before loading. Internal filter/strainer is cleaned weekly, though it never seems to need it. So, it's not an abundance of food pieces or extra-hard water going through the pump...just hot, soapy, filtered, softened water.At least the price is significantly lower (about a third of the cost) than some competing brands. At this price, I'll replace it every 2 years instead of replacing the dishwasher itself and having mismatched kitchen appliances!